Pasar Cinde yang Ditukar

Oleh Mursalin Yasland

SWARNANEWS.CO.ID, PALEMBANG |Bel lonceng berdenting nyaring. Tanda habis waktu. Murid SMEA Negeri 1 Palembang dalam kelas bubar secara teratur. Suara riuh menandakan ujian telah usai siang itu. Aku, Win, dan Yon, tiga bocah masih SD ini bergegas menyelinap masuk kelas dari pintu belakang sekolah. Mereka berlomba dengan penjaga sekolah yang siap mengunci ruang kelas.

Kertas buram bercoretan tinta pena dan pensil berhamburan. Lembar demi lembarkertas di atas meja, dalam laci, dan lantai, juga dalam keranjang sampah kami pungut. Hanya meja guru yang tampak bersih. Belasan ruang kelas sekolah bersejarah itu kami telisik satu per satu; satu orang satu kelas harus rampung digeledah.

Tak kurang 15 menit, semua kelas ‘tersapu’ bersih. Tumpukkan lembaran kertas buram bekas bertuliskan angka-angka tak beraturan sudah di depan mata. Kertas-kertas sisa ujian, ada yang masih baru dan sudah lusuh bahkan yang remuk dalam keranjang sampah pun kami raup dan diluruskan kembali.

Tumpukkan kertas bekas sudah setinggi betis. Kertas tersebut siap kami jual ke Pasar Cinde Palembang. Aku, Win dan Yon, tak mau menunggu waktu lama. Kertas tadi kami ikat dengan tali plastik. Biar tidak berat, kami bagi tiga tumpukkan. Seorang bisa membawa satu kantong asoy (kantong kresek). “Nah, lebih enteng,” kata Win, yang sekolah di SD Xaverius IV Bukit Kecik sembari menenteng kantong asoy.

***

 

Sekira satu jam lagi, matahari persis berada di atas kepala. Pengunjung Pasar Cinde sudah ramai, tanda perdagangan di pasar tradisional ternama tersebut menggeliat. Pengunjung pasar beragam: kaya dan tak mampu, bermobil maupun bersepeda atau jalan kaki. Mereka berdatangan dari berbagai pelosok Kota Palembang, yang belakangan dikenal Kota BARI (Bersih Aman Rapi dan Indah).

Hilir mudik becak di Jalan Letnan Jaimas (warga setempat menyebut Lorong Kapten) mendominasi. Sisi kiri Pasar Cinde tukang becak berkejaran dengan waktu mencari dan mengantar penumpang, utamanya warga keturunan Cina, yang menjadi sasaran. Mungkin dikira lebih berduit.

Siang itu, penjual ayam kampung hidup memakai kandang dari anyaman bambu sudah memakan seperempat badan jalan itu. Penjual es batu balok yang diselimuti serbuk gergajian kayu di depan warung gado-gado, menambah sempit, becek, dan sumpek jalan menuju Pasar Cinde. Meski demikian, lalu lintas orang ke pasar dan pulang tetap berjalan. Walau sesekali kerap bertumburan saat berpapasan.

Pasar Cinde Palembang hanya dua tingkat, tapi atapnya tinggi menjuntai ke langit. Gedung pasar yang kokoh dan khas tersebut dibangun di bawah tahun 1957 oleh arsitektur Herman …. Ruangan dalamnya bolong. Atap pasar yang tinggi ditunjang tiang-tiang tampak jelas dari bawah. Mata bebas memandang aktivitas pasar bila berdiri di balkon lantai dua. Tiang-tiang penyanggah atap pasar tampak elok dipandang, manambah gagahnya Pasar Cinde buatan zaman dulu.

Lantai dasar terbagi beberapa los pedagang. Sisi belakang diperuntukkan penjual ikan basah sebelahnya ikan kering atau ikan asin. Bersebelahan terdapat penjual sayur mayur dan los bahan kebutuhan dapur. Di pojokan dalam pasar juga ada penjual bumbu-bumbu dapur. Bagian depan masih di ruangan dalam terdapat penjual kerajinan tangan dan peralatan masak. Di sisi kanan dalam pasar terdapat kios-kios penjualan peralatan alat pancing dan toko-toko bungkus kertas dan karung goni.

Bagian luar lantai satu khusus pedagang makan-makanan seperti kerupuk – kempelang, pempek, dan kue-kue serta bolu, juga buah-buahan segar. Sebelah kanan depan pasar terdapat toko buku seperti Toko Ria dan Toko Laris. Di toko buku tersebut, menjadi tujuan anak-anak membeli buku tulis, buku bacaan dan peralatan tulis sekolah seperti pensil dan pena pilot atau boxy, yang waktu zaman itu lagi terkenal.

Menariknya di Pasar Cinde di sisi Jalan Cinde Welan terdapat toko penjual aneka kerajinan besi dan karet ban. Di pojok kanannya, tukang sol sepatu nongkrong siap melayani jahit sepatu sekolah dan pegawai. Nah, di belakang Pasar Cinde bersebelahan dengan pemakanan umum dan raja Palembang, terdapat toko-toko peralatan motor dan mobil bekas.

Sedangkan di lantai dua Pasar Cinde khusus penjual sepatu/sandal, baju sekolah, pramuka, ABRI, dan busana. Tak ketinggalan berjejer tukang jahit profesional murah meriah tapi keren, tak kalah dengan jahitan tailor lain di Jalan Sudirman. Seingatku ada Penjahit “Lily” yang selalu menjadi langganan keluargaku membuat baju/celana sekolah, batik lebaran, jas, dan safari kantor.

Bagi yang tinggal di seputaran Pasar Cinde, tak jelas tak lupa dengan Kantor Pos di lantai dua bagi depan persis naik tangga pintu depan. Kantor Pos tersebut menjadi idola waktu itu. Pengiriman surat menggunakan perangko tempel menjadi kenangan tak terlupakan, apalagi menjelang hari raya Idul Fitri. Masa kecil dulu juga memanfaatkan Kantor Pos untuk mengirim kartu pos bila ada kuis atau ingin minta (request) lagu di radio swasta atau RRI.

Malam harinya Pasar Cinde gelap. Pasar memang tutup, namun penjual makanan gerobak khas Palembang seperti tekwan, model, pempek, martabak dan lain-lain mulai merebak. Tak ketinggalan di pojok pasar tukang bubur kacang ijo juga menjadi langganan keluargaku setia berdagang hingga saat ini. Bahkan, sampai teko air minum untuk memasak air matang yang biasa digunakan tukang bubur itu zaman dulu (sekitar tahun 1978) ketika aku berkunjung masih dipakai sampai sekarang.

Meski waktu itu, pedagang masih menggunakan lampu petromaks (strong can) belum pakai listrik, tapi suasana malam sangat berkesan di Pasar Cinde.

***

Lorong-lorong kios lantai dasar Pasar Cinde sebelah kanan memang selalu sepi. Hanya ada dua atau tiga orang saja yang melintas. Selebihnya yang ramai di bagian lapak ikan dan sayur mayur. Kios-kios peralatan pancing ikan, aneka kerajinan tangan, toko plastik dan kantong kertas, juga karung beras tak seramai di lorong sebelah lainnya.

“Tiga kilo setengah,” kata Li Yen, warga keturunan, pemilik kios aneka kantong kertas Pasar Cinde. Tokonya khusus menjual berbagai kantong kertas yang di lem sagu berbagai ukuran. Zaman dulu belum ada kantong plastik berbagai ukuran seperti sekarang yang notabene merusak lingkungan.

Setelah menutup bandul timbangan dari bahan tembaga tersebut, ia melepaskan kantong asoy berisi tumpukkan kertas. Aku, Win dan Yon menerima duit dari Li Yen sebesar Rp 350. Karena waktu zaman Presiden Soeharto dulu menjelang tahun 1980, sekilo kertas bekas dihargai Rp 100. Muka kami bertiga ceria mendapat uang hasil jerih payah kami siang tadi.

“Alhamdulillah…,” kataku menghela nafas.

“Lumayan buat jajan sekolah besok,” timpal Win, sambil mengepal uang kertasnya.

Yon hanya terseyum. Ia tampak sibuk mengusap keringat di keningnya yang telah mengucur.

Maklum, kami bergegas jalan kaki dari Kompleks SMEA menuju Pasar Cinde membawa tentengan kantong asoy berisi kertas seberat tiga setengah kilo tanpa beralas kaki atau selop. Tak di jalan mampir di warung Aguan, sekedar membeli permen karet dan permen sugus.

Uang sebesar Rp 350 tersebut harus kami bagi tuntas. Masing-masing mendapat Rp 100, sisanya Rp 50 kami beli es parut bungkus, yang biasa mangkal di depan warung Si Tseng di bawah pohon rindang. Memang, kami masa kanak-kanak selalu mencari duit dari jualan kertas dan mengumpulkan alumunium dan besi bekas. Tempat jualnya, ya itu tadi di Pasar Cinde, yang dikenal pasar segala rupa dagangan.

***

Bunyi hentakan besi bertemu batu semakin keras. Kendaraan alat berat seperti traktor, eskavator, dan truk hilir mudik di Jalan Letnan Jaimas dan Jalan Cinde Welan. Sejumlah pekerja bertopi dan bertutup muka tampak kuat mengangkat dan memindahkan pecahan batu-batu. Beberapa pekerja berhelm proyek masing-masing sibuk dengan urusannya sembari memegang kertas berisi gambar bangunan.

Pasar Cinde dibongkar, demikian judul akun “Palembang Terkini” di instagram yang barusan aku lihat. Tak hanya foto tetapi juga video pembongkaran pasar bersejarah dan masuk dalam cagar budaya daerah tersebut, akhirnya jadi juga dibongkar (habis). Padahal, beberapa waktu lalu, di media sosial gencar penolakan yang tertuang dalam petisi “Save Pasar Cinde”. Aku pun ikut menandatangi petisi.

Dengan dalih proyek renovasi, rehabilitasi, revitalisasi, atau apa pun sebutan namanya yang penting enak didengar kalangan tertentu. Pasar yang berarsitektur bangunan masa kolonial tersebut, yang jelas akan ditukar dengan pasar moderen semisal Mal bertingkat, yang akan terhubung dengan LRT (light rail transportation).

Terkejut, ya memang. Bagi siapa pun yang memiliki kenangan dengan Pasar Cinde sudah pasti menyayangkan dan sedih melihat bangunan pasar bercorak dan berarsitektur khas masa lampau tersebut sengaja dibongkar bukan karena faktor alam.

Padahal, Pasar Cinde pernah menjadi tempat bertemunya masyarakat ketika Pawai Pembangunan di masa Soeharto jadi presiden pada setiap 17 Agustusan. Balkon depan pasar menjadi tumpuan untuk melihat defile dan iring-iringan kendaraan berhias pawai pembangunan di Jalan Jenderal Sudirman. Waktu itu masih ada mobil Tank ABRI yang moncongnya menghadap Jembatan Ampera.

Teringat Gedung Pasar 16 Ilir samping Jembatan Ampera. Setelah hangus terbakar, pasar tersebut ditukar dengan bangunan pasar moderen bertingkat oleh pengembang. Belum beberapa lama, bangunan lantainya di sisi Sungai Musi amblas. Setelah resmi dipakai, toko-toko dan kios-kios pasar apalagi lantai atas: kopong melompong.

Sebut saja Taman Ria, Taman Budaya, Gedung Sport Hall yang berlokasi di kawasan Kampus Jalan POM IX. Tiga gedung yang menjadi pusat keramaian “Wong Plembang” sebagai arena ruang terbuka hijau dan olahraga bagi warga beragam strata sosial sudah tinggal nama. Sekelumit kenangan di sana sudah pupus dan terkubur tanpa pusara. Semua sudah ditukar menjadi mal atau pasar moderen.

Nasib Pasar Cinde, akankah sama dengan gedung bersejarah lain di Kota Palembang? Bagiku, meminjam istilah film G30SPKI, “Pasar Cinde adalah Kontji.”

***

 

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